Sunday, July 4, 2010

First Task at Work, the Mall, and Scandal in India

After recovering from heat sickness, I was able to go to work on Friday. We normally work from 10 AM- 5 PM. Jenni, Sebastian, and I were joined by Martin, a French boy who has such a vibrant character, the Babylone House favorite, who just got back from a trip to Nepal. Bhawani gave me my first assignment: proofread the 2009-2010 Annual Report. I was glad to oblige since the other reports had awkward wording or incorrect grammar and spelling. That task took me the whole day, and I was proud of what I turned in at the end of the day.

It was Jenni's last day. She had a special ceremony in which she got a tika, a garland of flowers, candies, and a present. She and Sebastian said that the associates at GBS didn't like her, and her recycled plastic flower gift may have been an indication of this. She will be missed by myself and the other interns. She has such a light sense of humor and is very level-headed and kind.

When we returned home, I begged Sebastian to take me shopping so I could buy some Indian style tunics called kurtis. Luckily, another group of girls (Divya, a Canadian; Julia, a Russian woman with long hair; and Ksenia, another Russian who lives in France) was going to the mall so I joined their party. Now realize that only the rich Indians get to visit malls. Everything is much more expensive. You have to pay for quality. We girls were so relieved to finally be in air conditioning, however. I bought a pink tunic for 400 rupees (~$8.50). After shopping, Divya, and I went to eat at the cafe in the mall and then went upstairs to their food court. The mall had a hot dog stand, but instead of beef or pork they serve vegetarian or chicken "hog dogs". The food is delicious here mostly because it is fried, rich with cream and butter, and served with delicious blend of spices.

After returning from a successful shopping trip, Anna, a Russian girl from Kazakhstan, and Martin invited me to go to the swimming pool at a 5 star hotel. I took a shower, shaved, and wore my new bikini from Victoria Secret under a sarong. Since I was in a rush (apparently I take forever to get ready), I didn't pay attention to the snicker and laughter that followed me as I left the house. As I walked through the streets, people kept staring at me or honking or making comments in Hindi. After walking for quite sometime, we finally got to the hotel only to find out that the pool party was not that night. Since the guards were acting in a sketchy manner, we decided not to stay.

At this time, my leg (which is still recovering from ACL reconstructive surgery) and my back were hurting terribly so Martin gave me a piggy back ride. BIG MISTAKE! We were laughed at and ridiculed during our stroll back to Babylone. One pair of men on a motorcycle screamed at us, "Not allowed in India!" In India, it is frowned upon from people of the opposite sex to touch or show affection despite what might be advertised in India commercials or film. Interestingly, men are allowed to show their affection to other men by holding hands and riding on the same bike together. Indians also don't seem to protest against public urination, but a girl touching a boy, *GASP*. Ironically, this conservative land has also produced the Kama Sutra and has paintings of sexual positions in its palaces. To make matters worse, I was showing too much skin for Indian standards. My shoulders and legs below the knee were visible, and in the United States, I would have been modestly covered by the sarong. In another point of irony, stomachs are socially acceptable but shoulders are very erotic here.

When we finally arrived at the house, I got chided by Himanshu and his Indian friend for my inappropriate clothing. Himanshu said that he would finally take me shopping which I had asked him to do earlier. I got pissed off at that point. As if I couldn't tell from the reactions of all the other Jaipurians that my dress and actions were not acceptable. As an active (versus passive) woman and stubborn American, I am starting to reject completely acclimating. No matter if I do cover my shoulders, I am still white. I will still be stared at, judged, and gipped by storekeepers. GRRRRRRRR!!!

Amber Fort


After work, we trekked to Amber Fort, the old capital of Rajasthan before they moved due to water shortage. We paid 150 rupees, and I think it cost Indians 15 rupees for entrance. You always face this sort of discrepancy if you are a foreigner. We were also approached by a "tour guide". We totally fell for it. He hardly knew anything more about the Fort than we could have found out ourselves. He did help us take pictures, but he also got in the way of some great shots. According to Jenni, he was also groping himself. He was very creepy, and I would caution anyone against falling for such tourist trap. However, it only cost me 100 rupees so in the long run I didn't lose more than my pride and $2.



In the temple inside Amber Fort, we were given the gold garland of flowers (mostly dying flowers) and a tika (the red dot) mostly because we were tourists. Usually the flowers are an offering so the tour guide probably gave us someone else's offering.


Hall of Mirrors


The religious temple we visited.


Our creepy tour guide "explaining" the female statues on the temple to us.

After running us all through the Fort and the temple, our guide tried to make us enter a large jewelry and goods shop, but when we made it clear we were not interested, our tour abruptly stopped. Sebastian said he probably got commission from each place he led us. By this time, I was feeling overheated and sick. Sebastian took care of me though by splashing water on my face and feet and encouraging me to drink more water. I ate salty food to replenish the electrolytes I had lost. The rickshaw and bus ride only made my sickness worse.

When we got home, the other students helped feed me and put me to bed. I slept in Monty and Gautam's room (two young Indian men) since they have an air cooler. That morning, Monty had walked in on me taking a shower (since I couldn't figure out how to lock the door) and now we were sharing a bed. He was so embarrased. I was amused.

The next day I still felt sick so I could not go to work. I was myself by the late morning, however. Thankfully, I have not felt sick from anything I have eaten. My bowels are working properly, Mom.

First Day of Work

The night of my first day, a group of us from the house and an Indian AIESEC student named Himanshu went to a hookah or shisha bar and restaurant. It was my first time trying hookah, and let's just say I suck at it (or suck poorly as the case may be). Not really my cup of Darjeeling tea. Since shisha originated in India, it only seemed fitting to try it. Would I normally do it in the states? Nah. It always seems unauthentic and forced to me as if the act makes tokers, usually students or young people, more cultural. It was fun though! The company was good. The food was good. And we got a free hookah because some of us were white and foreign.

On my second day, Sebastian, a German who studies in Great Britain; Jenni, a woman from Finland; and I, an excited and eager American, make our trek to Amber where our NGO (non-govermental organization), Gram Bharati Samiti (GBS, www.gbsjp.org), is located. Both Sebastian and Jenni live in my house. So after I dressed as appropriately as possible, we left the house, caught a rickshaw for 40 rupees (less than $1), and took a bus from within the Pink City walls to Amber. We got off the bus a stop earlier so that we could see the elephants. These elephants are treated so poorly. Their skin is dry. They walk on hot, black asphalt, and their driver forces them to walk with a large metal hook in the back of their neck. Currently, Mumbai (Bombay) has banned the presence of elephants in the city in order to discourage keeping the animals in captivity and spreading diseases.

At GBS, I met Bhawani, the secretary and one of the original founders, and several other associates including Kusum, the joint secretary who is focused on women's empowerment and HIV/AIDS. The first day, I mostly read their annual reports from the last three years and socialized with Sebastian and Jenni. The activities of GBS seem very important and exciting. They are promoting projects that align with causes that I find the most important in our current world.

We eat lunch everyday at GBS. It is always vegetarian and is often spicy. You must always eat with your right hand since the left hand is supposed to be reserved for restroom use. People do not use toilet paper here.

Jenni, Sebastian, and I all left an hour early so that we could visit Amber Fort.

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

My First Day in Jaipur

I left Houston Sunday afternoon, and I am now here in Jaipur on Tuesday morning after 24 hours of flying and lay-overs. Before my travels I had just graduated from Northwestern University, sold my furniture, co-signed an auto loan for a 2010 Prius III, purchased auto insurance, prepared for my full time employment, and packed and unpacked my life from college. These past two weeks have been an emotional roller coaster as I attempted to figure out which pieces of my past I would bring into my adult, "real world" future. Every thing from my relationships to my class peers, sorority friends, boyfriend and more mundane items like silverware and alarm clocks had to be confronted, compartmentalized, and prioritized. With each meeting, I felt this sense of loss and also a feeling of excitement. I will be making new contacts, visiting my family, dancing with my salsa buds in Beaumont, using my houseware items in my own condo/townhouse, and developing my bond to Tim and my close friends in a unique and challenging way .

Nothing has been more abrupt then my arrival to Jaipur, however. My escort, Krishan, meets me at the airport. Almost immediately as I exit the airport, I am mobbed by beggar women. Krishan advises me not to give them anything. I ride in an auto rickshaw while he drives beside on his motorbike. I watch with amazement and fear as I sit in the back and look at this new world around me. A mixture of bicycles, motorbikes, taxi cabs, mule and cart, and automobiles all share the road. Also, I am sure we are going to run over Krishan. As I ride, I notice the ruin and marvel all within yards (or meters) of each other. Beautiful buildings next to rubble, litter along the well paved streets, gorgeous parks next to slums.

Thankfully we made it to a multi-story house called the Babylone House. About 10-12 AISEC students (the organization that arranges international traineeships) and Indian residents live here. Many students are leaving for home or another opportunity abroad this week, but more students should be arriving in July. By that time, I'll be a veteran. I am partially settled in as I sit in the shade of the patio to avoid roasting in the Indian sun. The house is in a nice neighborhood albeit a block away from the slums. My rent is 3000 rupees a month (about $65 USD). Thank god we have internet! They are very focused on conserving water, electricity, and gas here because resources are scarce in this semi-arid and developing area. Every one (especially Americans) who think(s) conservation and preserving the environment are useless and trivial need to visit India.

My landlord took me to the grocery store today, and there was so much good Indian food there. I didn't buy it, though, because I have no idea how to cook it. I got crackers and cheese, juice, bananas, yogurt, rice, cereal, and instant noodles. I'll probably be eating out a lot which will help the local economy and give me a richer cultural experience. My internship with Gram Bharati Samiti, an NGO that focuses on women's empowerment, the environment, and AIDS, will begin tomorrow. Several of the other interns also work for GBS. I am excited about the opportunity for field work. I hope my short stay will leave a positive impact on the area. I am truly fortunate to have the resources available to me in the States.

I hope to get a new camera soon so that I can post pictures, and I can hopefully cut down on my rambling.